It’s hard to imagine that cosmetics goliath M.A.C. Cosmetics was once a homemade makeup project in a Toronto kitchen, but that is exactly how it started. In the early 1980s, fashion photographer and makeup artist Frank Toskan, together with beauty salon owner Frank Angelo, brainstormed a solution to the dilemmas faced by beauty industry professionals such as themselves. At the time, commercial cosmetics could not withstand the grueling heat and bright studio lights of photo shoot sets. Yet stage makeup that could resist a hot set lacked the vibrancy professionals desired.
With these concerns in mind, the duo experimented in a kitchen in the back of Angelo’s hair salon with the aim of creating densely and brightly pigmented lipsticks, powders, and bases that could provide a smooth, non-oily finish. The pair initially sold their makeup out of Angelo’s salon to industry professionals and runway shows, but as news of their products’ quality spread throughout Toronto’s fashion industry, demand grew. In 1984, Makeup Artistry Cosmetics (now M.A.C. Cosmetics) became an official business, and the in-demand products became available in select department stores.

M.A.C. stood out as a beauty brand not only due to its use of vivid colours, but also due to its unique store look and experience, which made customers feel like they were sneaking a peek at the backroom of a fashion show. Early on, the company chose sleek black pots as its packaging. This was a striking choice in an industry which up to that point had only sold makeup in compacts. Black also extended to the store’s colours and employee uniforms. M.A.C. ensured that their staff was trained not only in makeup artistry, but also in the customer’s point-of-sale experience. Employee salaries were primarily decoupled from actual sales, meaning that the staff could relax and focus on giving customers knowledgeable advice. M.A.C. also did away with the traditional retailing strategy of gifts-with-purchase and sampling, relying instead on its affordable prices, word of mouth testimonials, and the quality of its products. Thus did M.A.C. establish itself as a cool, fashion-forward brand.
The brand also became highly sought after due to the care the company took to create products that were compatible with a broad spectrum of skin tones to suit “all sexes, all races, all ages”. The decision to pay close attention to the beauty needs of minorities has been one of the chief reasons M.A.C. became a global brand. M.A.C. proved how serious it was about its diversity mantra when, in 1994, it enlisted famed 6’7” drag queen RuPaul as its first celebrity spokesperson. In response to the edgy decision, Toskan stated that the founders “always resented the image of the nineteen-year-old beautiful blonde, white model being shoved down people’s throats.”
M.A.C. has consistently chosen diverse celebrities to front its brand, with stars such as Shirley Manson, Mary J. Blige, Ricky Martin, Raquel Welch, Cyndi Lauper, Elton John, Christina Aguilera, Missy Elliot, Debbie Harry, Boy George, Lady Gaga, and Nicki Minaj.
In order to increase its global reach, the founders of M.A.C. struck a deal with cosmetics giant Estée Lauder in 1995. Toskan eventually sold the company to Estée Lauder in 1998 after the untimely death of Frank Angelo during routine surgery. Despite its change of ownership, M.A.C. Cosmetics has maintained its playfulness and goal of being a brand that inspires confidence in all personalities, no matter how quirky or odd. Today, M.A.C. is sold in over 1500 location in 78 different countries. Next up for the company is the promotion of its new beauty lines created in collaboration with pop superstar Rihanna and Disney’s production of “Maleficent”.
Summary by:
Elena Iosef
Disclaimer: This Newsletter is intended to provide readers with general information on legal developments in the areas of e-commerce, information technology and intellectual property. It is not intended to be a complete statement of the law, nor is it intended to provide legal advice. No person should act or rely upon the information contained in this newsletter without seeking legal advice.
E-TIPS is a registered trade-mark of Deeth Williams Wall LLP.